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Chrysalis Voyage
Family, Cruising, Exploration and Laughter
Remembering the Good-Further thoughts on Egypt
Author: kim
Here in Turkey we met up with some friends from the Med Red rally. They came by Chrysalis in their sailboat one morning and knocked on our hull wondering if we wanted to sail with them for the day. There was a sailing race/regatta taking place in the bay and they were are fired up for the win. Having never sailed before (let alone in a race) Mike and I jumped at the opportunity. Had a terrific day and gained an appreciation for the teamwork and exhilaration that racing a sailboat provides.
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Solving Mysteries (or Wide Eyed) in Marmaris
Author: kim
Health care issues are always interesting when you’re living on a boat. For the first three years we lived aboard it wasn’t a problem as we were in North America operating within a system we were familiar with. Once while in the Bahamas I had to track down a dentist to replace a filling. Again, no big deal-everyone spoke English, I rode in a taxi and met a lovely Bahamanian dentist who despite equipment I recognized from my childhood dentist’s office back in the 70’s, did a marvelous job and only charged me 25$. Being in the Med is a little dicey as often there is not only the tracking down of a doctor (no yellow pages in English) but often a language barrier with the doctor as well. Up until recently, the only real health care providers we’ve dealt with are veterinarians as we’ve had to keep Skippers vaccinations up to date. Skipper is from Hungary and has a Euro Passport listing all his vaccines which should make passing him through customs an easy deal. So far, I don’t think one country we’ve been in has even asked to see it.
Aliens in Egypt
Author: kim
Egypt was the first culture I’ve been in where I have truly felt like a foreigner. Even traveling in Zambia or Hong Kong several years ago where the color of our skin made us a blatant minority, I didn’t feel the cultural gap I felt in Egypt. On our Mediterranean journey so far we have been in countries whose dress and customs have, for the most part, been similar to our own. Even though I didn’t speak the language, I could blend into a crowd, into a milieu that was just different enough to be interesting yet still comfortably familiar. In Egypt I found myself a complete alien.
Worth Three Donkeys
Author: kim
The heat in the Egyptian desert is oppressive. Combined with the wind which blows in through the car window directly on my face, I can practically feel my skin shrinking to wrinkles by the minute. No matter how much water I drink I am always thirsty. My lips parch almost immediately after I tighten the cap on my water bottle. The road from Hurghada to Luxor stretches about 200kms through the mountains and the desert. The terrain looks like I’ve stepped into the Indiana Jones movie - Raiders of the Lost Ark. Bleak. Several hundred yards ahead of us, the highway appears awash in water. Mirage.
See You Later, Alligator
Author: kim
Being moored in Suez City was pleasant enough. The view from the port side of Chrysalis was of town–a couple of bars and a lovely open sitting area with flowering red trees ablaze even from a distance. Off to starboard, the Canal. We could sit in the cockpit and watch a steady stream of tankers go by. Sort of like sitting in a café and watching the world go by, which in this instance was exactly the case.
Egypt and the Red Sea
Author: kim
We left Herzliya a week ago today (Sunday) headed toward Egypt. Chrysalis was too big to be docked with the other Med Red boats in Tel Aviv, so as we made our way south west, we had a great view on the radar of the other 50 boats making their way out of the Tel Aviv Marina. We slowed down about a ½ mile off the marina entrance to pick up our new friend, Sandy, who writes for Blue Water Sailing magazine. The rally coordinator asked if we could host her for a few days and we readily conceded. Under lovely conditions we went overnight, keeping in contact with our rally group and arrived at Port Said in good spirits.
Remembering Israel and Off to Egypt
Author: kim
We have very much enjoyed our time in Israel. Here, perhaps more than any other place we have visited so far, our preconceptions have been blown away by reality. The North American media does a real number on this neck of the woods and its generalization is unfortunate. While true that this nation is not without its problems, most of which are stacked up along its borders, the country and the people have much to offer pilgrims. If you are just traveling through you will see little of the conflict brewing in this area and it is well worth stopping for the history, religion, politics, as well as the diverse natural beauty. It is definitely my favorite place so far (I know I know, I say that at every port, but I think this time for sure). If you consider coming (and I think you should, just ask my Aunt and Uncle who LOVED Israel), keep an eye on the US (and Canada) Travel Advisories websites and go for it!
First Day in Jerusalem
Author: kim
“All actual life is encounter.”
Martin Buber
“The bravest–grope a little–
And sometimes hit a tree
Directly on the Forehead–
But as they learn to see–
Either the Darkness alters–
Or something in the sight
Adjusts itself to Midnight–
And Life steps almost straight.”
Emily Dickenson
Crossing the Line
Author: kim
April 2008 It’s 8am here. Another beautiful Israeli morning. I am enjoying the peace and quiet and have just opened the cockpit door to let in the coolness of a fresh new day. I glance out and see a middle aged couple standing on the dock looking at our boat. When they see me they start speaking to me in Hebrew.
Arrival in Israel
Author: kim
We left Crete on Tuesday, April 1, in good conditions which only got better through Wednesday. By Wednesday night when I took up my watch around 2am the small weather cell we had watched online at buoy weather had moved into our area. Nothing too substantial, just annoying 4-5 footers on the beam. I changed course slightly to ease the rocking and make drinking a decent cup of coffee an option.